I've managed structural fastener procurement for a mid-size construction company for about six years—maybe 180, I'd have to check the system. I've audited well over $180,000 in related spending. In that time, I've learned that "which Simpson Strong-Tie product do I need?" is often the wrong first question. The better question is: "what is this connection actually doing?"
This checklist is for anyone about to buy structural connectors or fasteners—whether it's Simpsone Strong-Tie joist screws for a deck project or a Simpson Strong-Tie 6x6 post bracket for a new pergola. Use it to keep your total cost down without sacrificing code compliance. I'll walk you through four steps, then I'll get honest about what this brand isn't.
When to Use This Checklist
Use this when you're:
- Selecting connectors for new construction or a repair
- Comparing quotes from different suppliers
- Reviewing a bundle of screws, brackets, and anchors
- Wondering if a cheaper generic fastener could do the same job
If that's not your situation, you might be in the wrong place. More on that later.
Step 1: Define the Load Path
Every structural connection has a purpose. A joist screw is not a nail, and a post bracket is not a tie-down. You'll waste money—and risk safety—if you grab whatever's closest.
For joist-to-beam connections, you need screws with specific shear and uplift values. Simpson Strong-Tie's joist screws are engineered for that. For a 6x6 post resting on concrete, a post bracket transfers vertical loads and resists lateral movement. Different products, different load tables.
I once watched our crew substitute ordinary wood screws for joist hanger nails because they were $8 cheaper per box. It seemed like a win until the inspection failed. The rework ate three days and $1,200—no, $1,400, I'm mixing it up with the other project. Either way, not the savings we'd hoped for.
Step 2: Check the Load Tables, Not Just the Price Tag
The real price of a connector is its structural performance. Per FTC guidelines (ftc.gov), performance claims have to be substantiated. Simpson Strong-Tie does that by publishing load values from third-party tested assemblies. That's the data you're actually paying for.
When comparing quotes, look for the same product series and material. A 6x6 post bracket in galvanized steel will carry a certain load; the same bracket in stainless steel might have different values in corrosive environments. Don't assume one is "just as good" without checking the numbers.
(Honestly, I've seen buyers skip this step because the catalog looks overwhelming. The trick is to find the "allowable loads" section and match your framing size. It's boring, but it beats explaining a structural failure to the building inspector.)
Step 3: Calculate the True Total Cost
Here's where a cost controller earns their keep. The sticker price of the fastener is only one line in the TCO. You need to factor in installation, tooling, and the probability of errors.
For example, you might find a cheaper screw that requires predrilling. Simpson Strong-Tie's joist screws are often self-drilling, which saves labor. If you're installing hundreds of screws, two extra minutes per screw adds up fast.
I built a simple TCO spreadsheet after getting burned on hidden fees twice. Columns: material cost, drilling/installation time, drill bit wear, removal/rework probability. You'd be surprised how often the "cheap" option loses. In Q2 2024, a vendor quote looked 12% cheaper than our usual supplier, but once I added the required specialty drill bits and the extra crew hours, it was 7% more expensive. The surprise wasn't the price difference; it was how much hidden value came with the "expensive" option—support, consistent quality, and no callbacks.
Step 4: Mind the Drill Sizes and Installation Specs
I know people search for "what size hole to drill for cabinet hardware" and end up here—that's a different world. For structural hardware, hole size is not a suggestion. It's stamped on the bracket or in the manual.
Take Simpson Strong-Tie anchors: if you're using a 3/4" anchor, you don't drill a 1" hole just because it's easier to get the anchor in. The concrete needs the precise hole for the expansion mechanism to work. The same principle applies to a 6x6 post bracket—the bolt holes are sized for a specific fastener diameter. Drilling them out weakens the connection.
During a 2024 project, a crew member predrilled all the post bracket bolt holes a bit too wide. The inspector flagged it, and we had to epoxy in metal sleeves. That's a great way to blow your budget. (Mental note: always deliver the spec sheet to the field crew before they start.)
Now, the Elephant in the Room
This article is about structural connectors. If you came here looking for a powergear2 32‑inch bypass lopper or a screw compressor manual pdf, you're in the wrong place. That's not a dig—I respect the search. It proves my point perfectly: specialists have boundaries.
Simpson Strong-Tie does not make pruning loppers. And I don't expect a tool manufacturer to know how to calculate a deck beam connection. That's what structural hardware specialists do. The vendor who says "this isn't our strength—here's who does it better" earns my trust for everything else. I'd rather work with a specialist who knows their limits than a generalist who overpromises.
Three Mistakes I See Repeatedly
First, ignoring the manufacturer's load table because "the supplier said this is equivalent." Second, buying generic screws for structural connections to save $20. Third, waiting until the last minute and paying for rush shipping on the wrong product.
In my experience, the cost of a mistake is always higher than the cost of a correct product. Even when the schedule is tight (and it always is), I've never regretted choosing the code-compliant option. The two weeks until delivery can be stressful, but that's nothing compared to a failed inspection.
So here's your action plan: define the load path, check the load data, calculate TCO, and respect the drill specs. Then, if you're still not sure, talk to someone who does this daily—you won't regret it.
