Simpson Strong-Tie Hardware FAQs: Masonry Anchors, Stackable Washer Dryers, Pressure Washers, and Trim

In my role coordinating structural hardware for contractors, I get calls when somebody should have ordered something days ago. I've handled 200+ rush orders over the past six years—same-day turnarounds, late-night fastener swaps, anchors that had to land before a concrete pour. Most of those conversations end up with the same questions about Simpson Strong-Tie hardware. Here are the answers I give when I'm not on the phone trying to find overnight freight.

Quick list:

• What's the difference between Simpson Strong-Tie masonry anchors and regular screws?
• Why is Simpson Strong-Tie hardware more expensive than generic brackets?
• Can Simpson Strong-Tie hardware secure a stackable washer dryer?
• Will a 3100 psi pressure washer damage Simpson Strong-Tie anchors?
• Do you need a nail gun to install trim?
• What's the most common Simpson Strong-Tie installation mistake?
• What does 'code listed' actually mean?
• How do I pick the right masonry anchor?

The Real Questions

1. What's the difference between Simpson Strong-Tie masonry anchors and regular screws?

Simpson Strong-Tie masonry anchors are designed for concrete, block, and brick. A regular wood screw doesn't bite into masonry; it just scrapes around and eventually strips out. Anchors like the Titen HD screw anchor, wedge anchors, and sleeve anchors use different thread geometry and expansion mechanisms. They also come with published load values and code listing information.

I'm not a structural engineer, so I can't tell you whether a specific connection works for your load. What I can tell you from a supply side is that if you're making a structural connection into masonry, you want something with a documented rating. 'It feels tight' isn't a spec.

2. Why is Simpson Strong-Tie hardware more expensive than generic brackets?

Because you're paying for engineering, testing, and traceability. I look at total cost, not just the sticker price. A generic bracket might hold a simple shelf. But if it's a deck ledger, a post base, or anything connected to a building, a non-listed part creates questions on inspection. Those questions cost time, and time is money.

Then there's the cheap bracket, expensive rework pattern. I've seen a $3 saving per connector turn into a much bigger conversation when the inspector asked for documentation. The contractor had to tear out the work and redo it with the specified hardware. That's the total cost of ownership argument: the lowest unit price often isn't the lowest total cost.

3. Can Simpson Strong-Tie hardware secure a stackable washer dryer?

Sort of, but don't improvise. A stackable washer dryer setup needs the appliance manufacturer's bracket kit first. That kit handles the washer-to-dryer connection. Simpson Strong-Tie hardware can be used for the wall or floor anchoring part, like straps or hold-downs, but the appliance side has to match the manufacturer's manual.

This gets into appliance-specific territory, which isn't my specialty. I'd rather say 'check the manual before buying anchors' than have someone bolt a dryer to a wall with the wrong bracket. Seismic straps and anti-tip kits are a different product category from structural connectors.

4. Will a 3100 psi pressure washer damage Simpson Strong-Tie anchors?

Probably not, unless you do something unusual. A 3100 psi pressure washer is common for concrete and siding. Galvanized Simpson Strong-Tie anchors and connectors can handle that kind of blast from a few feet away. The real issue is trapped water. If you spray directly into an anchor hole at close range, you're pushing moisture into the masonry. Then it sits there.

I'd use a wider spray tip and keep the wand moving. Let the area dry out. Also, don't pressure wash fresh anchor installations before the adhesive or concrete cures. That's more about the surrounding material than the hardware.

5. Do you need a nail gun to install trim?

No. A hammer and trim nails work. A nail gun is faster and leaves smaller holes, but it's not required.

The part that gets people in trouble is using the wrong fastener for what the trim is attached to. If you're installing finish trim, small finish nails are fine. If you're installing something structural—a ledger board, a beam hanger, a post base—the fastener needs to come from the engineer's spec. In March 2024, I helped a contractor source replacement anchors after a permit correction: the original work used flooring nails where structural screws were required. The nails were fine for trim; they just weren't fine for a load path.

6. What's the most common Simpson Strong-Tie installation mistake?

Using the wrong fastener inside the connector. People buy a Simpson Strong-Tie post base and then fill it with whatever screws are in the truck. That doesn't work. The connectors are designed around specific fasteners—often Strong-Drive screws or specific bolts. If the screw isn't listed, the load rating doesn't apply.

Another one: tightening anchors before the concrete cures. I paid $800 in rush freight once to replace wedge anchors that got pulled out because somebody tensioned them too early. Even after I ordered the replacements, I kept second-guessing whether the crew would wait the full cure time. It's not exciting advice, but it's the most common problem I see.

7. What does 'code listed' actually mean?

It means a product has been evaluated against building code requirements, usually through a third-party program like ICC-ES. Simpson Strong-Tie publishes evaluation reports that tell you which connectors and anchors meet specific code sections. That matters because a building inspector doesn't just want to see a bracket; they want to see that the bracket is approved for the application.

I think 'code listed' is one of those phrases people nod along to and then skip. It's not marketing. It's documentation. If you buy Simpson Strong-Tie hardware, keep the packaging or take a photo before the job. That little label can save you a frantic call later.

8. How do I pick the right Simpson Strong-Tie masonry anchor?

Start with the base material. Concrete, brick, and block behave differently. Then ask about load direction: is it pulling out, shearing, or both? For concrete, wedge anchors are a solid default. For hollow block, sleeve anchors are usually a better fit. If you need to remove the anchor later, Titen HD screw anchors are convenient.

When in doubt, look for the ICC-ES evaluation report on the Simpson Strong-Tie website. That's the reliable source for load values and installation requirements. It's not as exciting as 'just use a bigger bolt,' but it's the answer that keeps an inspector happy. If the load is structural, talk to an engineer before you buy. I can help with the order; I can't approve the design.